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San Juan Fiesta del Agua y Jamón

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Wherever you are in Spain, but particularly in Andalucia, you are likely to know the name of a small town in Las Alpujarras, even if you have never been there. Order a bottle of water in a bar, or buy one in a shop and the name you will mostly likely see emblazoned across it is Lanjarón, a place that is famous for water, in more ways than one.

This modest town was the first in Spain to bottle its spa water and you can still drink the water free of charge direct from the spring. There are also several fountains to be found throughout the town, where you can fill up your bottles before a walk or a day out. Lanjarón is also a spa town, and at the balneario you can find all sorts of treatments, from the cosmetic to the health-giving, that use the local water. 

But the one week of the year when you can really experience how important water is to the local community is from June 23rd, the Noche de San Juan, to June 26th. From midnight on the 23rd, everyone, old and young, resident and tourist, ready or not, will get wet as the biggest water fight in Spain, Europe and probably the world, begins. The aim? To soak and be soaked, before going off for a drink and a bit of a party. 

The biggest shock you will encounter is that a water pistol is not going to cut it; on the balconies of the main street you will see water hoses worthy of fire stations and the residents are not ashamed to use them. You can get your own back, at least a little, by buying a bucket before the fun starts (they are on sale everywhere), standing under a hose to fill it up, before throwing the contents at someone else. In less than an hour, the party has moved from one end of the town to the other, the main street is a river, and you will wish you had worn your swimsuit after all…

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High Days and Holidays: August in Andalucia


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Summer may be nearly over but we look back with fondness on exciting times last month. Unlike in countries in the North of the continent, here in Spain as in France and many other Catholic countries, the 15th August is a public holiday, a day on which no business will get done. For anyone used to a 24-hour culture of work, this can be extremely annoying but proper holy-days, as in days where everything is closed, are an extremely important part of Spanish life. Embracing them, and all the enjoyment they offer, will help you feel like a real resident, not just a tourist. The pace here is slower, and adjusting is key.

Here are some of the highlights in Andalucia. Be sure not to miss them next year!.

In Almería, from the 17-25th August, the region celebrates the Fiesta of the Virgin of the Sea, on August 20th, in Vejer de la Frontera, there is a night-time flamenco festival, Malaga’s horse-racing season continues until August 26th, in Niebla (in Huelva province) the theatre and dance festival starts in July and continues until August 28th. Later in the month, in Cadiz, enjoy the livestock market as part of the Feria Real de San Agustin (28th-31st) and, in Baeza, Jaen, from August 28th to September 3rd, the pilgrimage of the Virgen del Rosell, patron saint of La Yedra takes place: watch the Virgen’s statue being taken from her sanctuary in her village to the town of Baeza, and see the streets full of gypsy carriages and wagons. Finally, in Ronda, enjoy the Feria de Pedro Romero, which starts with a parade at 7.30pm on August 30th and continues to the 4th September.

You can find out more about festivals all year round in Andalucia here

Most of northern Europe has lost sight of such traditions and festivals, except for a few key ones; in Spain they are a reminder that this is both a notionally religious country and, perhaps more importantly, one that takes celebrations very seriously indeed!

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